From: Clinton Ellerman

Hello,

The 2010-2011 season will be my first. How do I locate areas that I can trap in? Does anyone know of anywhere close to Salt Lake?

Thank you

If you can help Clinton, email me your answer and I'll post it here.

Thanks,

Theron

tctaylor@wirelessbeehive.com

Last year I began trapping, and during that season I had caught about 10 mink, so this year I was excited to start again.  Recently I caught my first mink of the year, I went home and skinned it the same as usual and then put it on a stretcher. I went out the next morning to see how it looked and to my surprise the entire skin had turned a dark black color instead of the usual red.  Do you know why this might of happened? Or what could've caused it? is it bad to have this happen? Does that mean that I couldn't sell it that way? 

Thanks,

 Kaden

Can anyone help with this one?

 No one seemed to answer this gents question; we are not from Utah, we are from Maine; but we are trappers and are and were active members of the MTA; trapper educators and chapter officers.  From reading Kaden's question, the only answer could be that the mink he caught and skun this past year was not yet prime, thus causing the hide under the pelt to turn a blackish color.  It must have been a catch in the early part of your season, and maybe the season was uncommonly warmer than usual.  During a lack of cold weather, the animals underfur will not thicken enough to enable the pelt to be actually prime - when that happens, the pelt will dry to a blackish color instead of the healthy opaque.

Scott & Charity Rudge

Maine Trappers  ;=)

Tip - Shared By: Theron
I always keep a dull pointed dowel, approx 1/2 inch diameter and 8 inches long, in the skinning shed to help separate those tight spots like armpits and such. It sure saves on the fingers.

Tip - Shared By Theron
Sometimes you can buy used traps (or even new ones) without the jaw space. Utah law requires a 3/16" space. You can make your own spacers by various different ways, but be careful that your home-made spacers can't move down toward the hinge area. The spacer could slide down and keep the jaws from closing tight enough to hold your critter.

Tip - Shared By: Theron
Bobcats rely on sight more than smell when hunting prey. Capitalize on this by using a visual attractor such as a shiny object (playing card, CD, etc.) or non-protected feathers such as chicken, or domestic duck/goose, hanging close to your set. In Utah it is illegal to use "visible bait" (animal parts larger than 1 cubic inch), within 30 ft. of a trap. So, I kill "bears" and cut their skin into strips or use their guts to hang for flags at bobcat sets. I get these "bears" at the DI or other goodwill stores. There is usually a good selection of recycled critters (teddy bears, stuffed rabbits, etc.), at our local DI. They are cheap and work as good as the real thing. I heard a tip at the convention to glue some artificial eyes on your flags. I think I'm gunna give this a try. The stuffing makes really good artificial wool. If you want some "flash" try using all those annoying AOL CDs that come in the mail as a flag. They can be seen for miles. Tin foil and Christmas tree tinsel also work.

But, be careful, they also attract that old lowlife scumbag; Johnny Sneakum.

Tip - Shared By: Theron
Here is a tip that was told to me years ago by the best cat trapper I ever trapped with (Ken Madsen). Start with propylene glycol and mix just enough water to thin it enough to spray from a spray bottle. After you make a set, spray the set area with the thinned glycol to help keep it from freezing and to give the set that weathered look. I have also heard that RV anti-freeze works good. Has anyone else tried it?

Tip - Shared By: Jason
I always do some "ground work" before I start skinning. Before I put the animal on the gambrel, I cut around the inside of the lips top and bottom and cut through the nose cartilage. Also, cut around the front and hind legs, strip the tail and cut around the vent.

Tip - Shared By: David Skinner
Coon hunters that run hounds make sure you know the other person's dog before you run your dog with it. I have been hunting hounds from when I was old enough to walk with a lot of good dogs and a lot of junk too had so great dogs and ran them with a friends dog and screwed them up badly good hunting and trapping out their.

Tip - Shared By: Theron
If you need an adjustable method of hanging your critters for skinning, try using large size dog "choke chains". Just form a slip knot by pulling the chain through the end loop then slipping it over the critter's foot. I have hooks installed in my shed ceiling to hang the other end loop on. These are spaced about 3 feet apart and that is about right for most. These are very versatile and adjustable by moving it up or down the legs. I never did get along with gambrels.

This area saved for YOUR tip/idea. Please share your knowledge with your fellow trappers. Remember, some of our members aren't as experienced as others and your tip may make life a lot easier for them. Send to:
mailto: tctaylor@wirelessbeehive.com

If you know the answer to any questions posted here, please email them to Theron Taylor so they can be posted.  tctaylor@wirelessbeehive.com

If I am just snaring for fox do I need to have the breakaway on the snare?

Yes, according to the proclamation. I have copied and pasted the section here:

(2) All snares, except those set in water or with a

loop size less than 3 inches in diameter, must be

equipped with a breakaway lock device that will

release when any force greater than 300 lbs. is

applied to the loop. Breakaway snares must be fastened

to an immovable object solidly secured to the

ground. The use of drags is prohibited. (USDA/APHIS

Wildlife Services employees in lawful performance

of their official duties are exempted from the break

away snare restriction.)

Thanks for the question,

Theron

Last year I began trapping, and during that season I had caught about 10 mink, so this year I was excited to start again.  Recently I caught my first mink of the year, I went home and skinned it the same as usual and then put it on a stretcher. I went out the next morning to see how it looked and to my surprise the entire skin had turned a dark black color instead of the usual red.  Do you know why this might of happened? Or what could've caused it? is it bad to have this happen? Does that mean that I couldn't sell it that way? 

 Thanks,

 Kaden

_____________________________________________________________________

 Do you need to have a permit to trap coyotes, and do you need to inform fish and game of where you have traps?

 Matt

No and No. There is no license required or season on coyotes. You do not need to inform DWR (fish & game) of where you are trapping. You do have to have your traps identified with your assigned number that you get from DWR for $5.00. This number is good for your lifetime. It's a good idea to read the Furbearers Proclamation to become familiar with the laws and rules before setting traps. We are here to help you, but the responsibility is yours to be informed. http://www.wildlife.utah.gov/furbearer/ 

Thanks for your inquiry,

Theron

Question,

 I am trapping  only Coyotes/ Raccoons and an occasional Red Fox..   (Unprotected Species in Utah)

 DUE TO THE FACT THAT I AM TRAPPING.... If my traps are marked with my  registration number and  meet the 3/16 jaw spread rules ... AM  I  required to buy a fur bearer license to trap  for these non fur bearer species?  

 Bert

Answer: No

Question,

I'm 12 and just getting started on trapping. My main question is,
after you skin the coon or whatever you've managed to catch, is there
some way that you can preserve the pelts without tanning. That is, my
schedule is already pretty hectic without having to open up my own
curring/tanning factory.

Thanks a bunch.
  Andrew

OK thanks. One more question, if i don't want to pay to tan professionally how do you suggest tanning at home?

Send your questions/answers to Theron at: tctaylor@wirelessbeehive.com